Tasting note

The best age designation for tawny port is a matter of much debate, with many preferring 20 or 30 year-olds over the 40s, much like similar discussion in the Scotch world where you reach a point of diminishing returns with time. This is evidently reaching into the depths of dried and caramelized fruit character, to the point where fruit is really no longer a dominate element. Aromatic potency is curtailed at this age, and while the aromatics are beguiling, this is a wine that beguiles more on the palate with the inimitable texture that can only evolve with significant extended ageing. Personally, I enjoy a touch more vitality, while volatile acidity and alcohol vapors tend to dominate the finish. I suspect the spirit used to fortify the majority of these wines was more rustic than what has been used in more recent times. In any case, this is an amazing wine, and still a relative value in the context. Tasted August 2014. Score - 96. (John Szabo, MS, winealign.com, Aug. 28, 2014)

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